In June, my wife and I were happy to be invited to the Harriton Association’s “Epicurean Extravaganza” fundraising event, where we played the role of “Epicures.”

The event, held at the City Tavern in Philadelphia, sampled authentic 18th-century recipes that Charles Thomson and Thomas Jefferson enjoyed. Walter Staib, Chef and proprietor of City Tavern as well as Host of the Television Series, “A Taste of History,” hosted the event and prepared the cuisine.

The event married the atmosphere of the City Tavern with the mission of the Harriton House. This was the first time the Harriton House had a fundraiser downtown and was met with an overwhelmingly warm response.

All of the waiters and bartenders were dressed in period colonial garb, giving the feeling that we had stepped back in time and were dining with the founding fathers. Back in the time of the writing of the Declaration of Independence, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson and the like often ate and drank at the City Tavern.

The Harriton House, built in 1704, is located just down the road from us and hosts events all year round. Built by a Welsh Quaker named Rowland Ellis, the original 700 acre estate was owned by William Penn in the 1680’s. It has been restored to the time when Charles Thomson occupied the home in the late 18th century, including objects and art he owned.

Aside from the daily tours and school visits, the Harriton House hosted events this year ranging from ice cream socials to the Welsh Heritage Festival to Beekeeping for Beginners. You can check out all of Harriton House’s historical information as well as their programs and events at harritonhouse.org.

Walter Staib is not new to the Harriton Association. His PBS television series has several segments which were filmed at the Harriton House and farm. The three year series titled “A Taste of History” airs on nearly 50 PBS stations nationwide and explores America’s culinary beginnings.

My wife and I would like to thank Bruce Gill, executive director of the Harriton Association and chef Walter Staib for his work on this successful event.   We along with everyone else had a great time and probably ate too much. I encourage anyone in the area to go visit Bruce at the Harriton House or have a meal at City Tavern. Both places take you back in history and offer a feel of Americana.

Frenchless Toast
by Chef Mark R. Vogel

Why is French toast called “French” toast?  It didn’t originate in France.  In fact, despite its Francophilic title, there is nothing inherently French about French toast.  It is a dish that spans numerous countries and eras in history.

Moreover it is, or has, been known by many other names such as Spanish toast, German toast, nun’s toast, eggy bread, torriga, Poor knights of Windsor, and many others.

In France, the country of its namesake, it is known as “pain purdue,” which translates as “lost bread.”  This ineluctably refers to the traditional use of stale bread in the dish.

A Little French Toast History

French toast can be traced back to the Romans.  This is really not surprising.  In fact, its origins must be hoarier than that.  Once bread was invented, it didn’t take centuries of evolution to realize it can be dipped in fluid to soften or flavor it.

Nevertheless, the Roman Empire is our identified provenance which explains the French name for French toast which preceded pain purdue:  “pain a la Romaine,” or Roman bread.  The term “French toast” can be traced to at least 17th century England and of course spread to America along with the colonists.

French toast was eaten throughout Europe during the middle ages.  It was indeed a means of utilizing stale bread, both to make it palatable and to avoid wasting food, an unthinkable act for the penurious peasants of the time.  However, the affluent consumed it as well, albeit adorned by more extravagant and expensive ingredients.

As stated, French toast or some variation thereof is consumed in too many countries to mention.  For some it is a dessert; for others a holiday favorite such as on Christmas or Easter.  But there’s no dispute that here in America, French toast has become one of our iconic breakfast offerings.

Basic French toast is quite simply slices of bread dipped in an egg and dairy mixture, and then fried in butter.  Traditionally it is topped with powdered sugar and syrup.  But from these humble beginnings a multitude of permutations emerge.  A wide variety of flavoring elements can be added to the basic recipe.  All kinds of fruit, nuts, whipped cream, peanut butter, cheeses, jelly, etc. can festoon the basic template.

What About The Bread

Bread choices are variable but usually encompass some form of white bread with not too hard a crust.  French Brioche and Jewish challah breads are delightfully decadent choices.  These are rich breads fortified by eggs.  As for me, I must have been a starving Dark Ages peasant in another life.  I make French toast from my everyday sliced white bread which is starting to go stale.

Stuffed French toast is basically a French toast sandwich.  Some kind of filling is placed between two pieces of pre-cooked French toast and then it is finished in an oven.  Speaking of sandwiches, we couldn’t discuss French toast without mentioning the Montecristo.

The Montecristo

Originating probably in California in the 20th century, a Montecristo is a ham/turkey and cheese sandwich.  Once composed each side is dipped in beaten egg and fried, in essence creating a sandwich encased in French toast.

One of the great culinary mysteries is where the Montecristo derived its name.  Montecristo or “Mountain of Christ” is a small island off the Tuscan coast which was immortalized in Alexandre Dumas’ classic:  “The Count of Montecristo.”  Either the island or the novel would seem to be the source of inspiration but it remains anybody’s guess.

In any event, below is my recipe for orange-almond French toast.  If you prefer the no-frills original, just omit the orange and almond flavorings.  Viva la………Romans?

Orange -Almond French Toast

Butter, as needed for frying
3 eggs
2 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tablespoon orange zest
1 tablespoon sugar
¼ teaspoon almond extract
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of salt
6 slices of bread
Powdered sugar and maple syrup as needed

Heat up a large sauté pan or griddle to no more than medium heat with a generous amount of butter.  Thoroughly whisk the eggs, milk, cream, orange juice, orange zest, sugar, almond extract, cinnamon and salt in a bowl.  Pour into a square or rectangular baking dish.

Place the bread in the dish, working in batches if necessary and allow it to soak somewhat on each side.  Place the bread in the pan until browned on the first side.  Flip and brown the other side.  Sprinkle powdered sugar on the bread and serve with the syrup.

What’s Your Favorite French Toast Recipe?

Let me know how you like to make French Toast at home in the comment area below.  What’s your favorite bread? What’s your favorite topping? Share your ideas.

Dazed and Confused:  Smoke Point Versus Flash Point

A couple of days ago, I received a question from Carla regarding cooking oils.  There are tons of oils out there that are suitable for cooking, but it can be very confusing.  I have certainly been confused, and Carla is, so I figured that there would be other people out there equally confused.  Here is Carla’s question:

I am so confused!  I have checked several sites about “flash points” of oil and everyone of them is different!  I want to use the best for pan searing. I know you recommend canola but I don’t have an oven ready cast iron pan so think perhaps another oil that retains more heat is better? (Again, dazed and confused).  Also, what heat do you keep the burner on ~ high?

If any of this sounds familiar, read on.

Generally speaking, the temperature that we are most concerned with when it comes to using oils to transfer heat to our food is the smoke point.  We’ve all been there - our oil is heating merrily in the pan, and then all of a sudden, wisps of smoke begin rising from it and it starts to smell funny.  Meet the smoke point of your oil.

Once the oil reaches the smoke point, it signals that the oil is chemically breaking down.  More important for us cooks, that nasty smell translates into off flavors in our food.  If you have reached the smoke point, it’s time to concede defeat, get rid of that oil and start again.

There is a problem, though.  It’s all well and good to know what it means to reach the smoke point, but we also have to know what that temperature is so we can keep the oil from reaching it.

Fortunately for us, many helpful scientists have determined the smoke point for almost every oil known to man.  Let’s all take a moment to thank the scientists.  “Thank You Scientists”

Low Smoke Point Oils

Unrefined oils, such as flax seed oil, walnut oil and sesame oil have very low smoke points - between 225°F and 350°F.  Since these smoke points can easily be reached and exceeded even on medium heat, especially when used in small amounts, unrefined oils are usually used for flavoring a dish or a dressing instead of as a cooking medium.

Medium Smoke Point Oils

In the middle of the spectrum, oils such as grape seed oil, olive oil (not extra virgin) and peanut oil have smoke points between 375°F and 450°F.   These oils can be dependably used for sautéing, pan frying and even deep frying.  I especially like peanut oil for deep frying.

High Smoke Point Oils

If you are looking for oils with very high smoke points, you can’t go wrong with refined canola oil or ghee (or clarified butter) with smoke points between 470°F and 485°F.

Which One Should I Cook With?

(more…)