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Freezing Foods

June 3rd, 2011 by RG in Cooking Techniques

How to Freeze Food For Reheating

Recently I asked readers to let me know what they wanted me to write about. I received dozens of great responses including this one from Lee who said,

I do a lot of cooking in advance and would like to know if the various dishes freeze and reheat well. Or, can I freeze the food at a certain point in the preparation and add other ingredients (the ones that don’t freeze well) later? It would be wonderful if every recipe gave this information.

Lee, I agree. It would be great if all recipes came with instructions for freezing leftovers. Some do but most of the time they must expect us to cook for one sitting or finish everything that night. I’m not a nutritionist or food scientist but I did a little research and came up with some guidelines that you may find helpful.  There is lots of information on the Internet that cover this topic and I suggest you do your own search for more detailed information on freezing foods.

Finding the Time to Cook Every Night

Most parents want to serve their kids nutritious and tasty meals.  And most people want to eat meals that are nutritious and tasty.  The problem is that, between working, taking care of the house, getting the kids to tennis or physical therapy and still having a minute to sit down and relax, it is often hard to find the time to cook a complete, healthy meal from scratch every night.  I know it is a problem that I run into at home quite frequently.

So what’s the answer? Yes, you could hire a personal chef or go to one of those meal-planning places or just order take out, but all of that can get to be pretty expensive.  Although we enjoy getting the odd take out meal every once in awhile, the answer for us is refrigeration and freezing.  Most foods can be stored for up to seven days in the refrigerator.  That sounds like a long time, but here’s how to do it safely:

  1. Make sure that whatever food you are making gets cooled down quickly.
  2. Refrigerate the food preportioned, whether it’s enough to feed five or two.  Reheating and cooling foods repeatedly can encourage bacterial growth, so only reheat what you are going to eat and leave the rest in the fridge.
  3. Reheat the food to at least 160 degrees F for 15 seconds.

According to some of my chef friends, food safety guidelines say that food should only stay in the temperature danger zone (between 41F and 140F) for no more than four hours.  So, the more quickly you can get it above 140 degrees F when you’re first cooking it, the more quickly you can chill it to below 41 degrees F and the faster you can bring it back up to serving temperature when reheating, the safer you will be.  To err on the side of caution, though, I really wouldn’t recommend storing foods for more than five days, if you can help it.

Freezing Foods

I turn to the refrigerator first, because I can put almost anything in it without worrying if it will reheat okay.  But, what if you want to store foods for a longer time, or what if you want to make more of whatever you’re cooking than you can eat in a week?  Then, it’s time for the freezer.

Freezing can be a bit tricky, though.  Not all foods freeze well, and when thawed, some are downright unpleasant.  Remember these two cardinal rules, though, and you can still enjoy some very tasty frozen and reheated meals.

  1. When it comes to freezing, the faster you can do it, the better the texture and taste of the reheated food. Freezing foods slowly allows large ice crystals to form. This can adversely affect the texture of foods, especially foods that contain a relatively high concentration of water (milk, sour cream, cheese) and/or cell walls that can be ripped apart by crystals (most fruits and non-starchy vegetables).  So, the same rules apply here as apply in refrigeration: chill foods before putting them in the freezer and freeze the foods in portions, or at least in thin layers (like spread out in 1 or 2 gallon freezer bags.
  2. Keep the air out and the moisture in. If you are planning on freezing food for long term storage, you will want to wrap it so a minimum of air can get in.  The air can cause the surface of the frozen food to oxidize, changing the color, flavor and texture of the food.  It’s still safe to eat, but just because it is safe doesn’t mean that it will taste good.The other thing that can happen if food is not wrapped very well is freezer burn.  The ice crystals in the frozen food naturally want to be in the coldest part of the freezer, which is on the walls of the freezer itself.  As the ice molecules migrate, they are taking moisture out of the food, resulting in dried out and tasteless dinners.The absolute best way to minimize oxidation and freezer burn is to use a vacuum-based food saver type solution.  Since all the air is pulled away from the food and the bags are heat sealed, little to no air can enter, and little to no moisture can leave.If you do not have a vacuum sealer system, use heavy duty zip top bags and press as much air out of them as possible before sealing.  Limit the amount of time that you leave the food in the freezer, too.  I don’t care how well wrapped it is, nothing is going to taste good after being in the freezer for five years.

Here are some cooking guidelines if you are planning to cook specifically to freeze and then reheat later.

  1. For casseroles, under-cook the starch by 3/4 to account for those starches softening up while frozen. So, if the package calls for cooking pasta for 10 minutes, only cook it for 7-8 minutes.  If the rice should be ready in 20 minutes, only cook it for 15 before adding in the additional casserole ingredients.
  2. Do not freeze anything with sour cream in it. Sour cream gets very watery after being frozen and can affect the texture when reheating.
  3. For best results, don’t freeze any prepared foods for longer than a month. Guidelines might give some foods several months in the freezer, but since we’re talking about freezing recipes and not just ingredients, err on the side of caution for best flavor and texture.
  4. The flavor of salt and herbs can get more powerful over time in the freezer. Under-season the food to be frozen, and then season to taste once reheating.
  5. Consider only freezing a portion of the recipe and finishing it upon thawing. This is especially true with pasta dishes.  Since it only takes a few minutes to cook pasta, you may as well just go ahead and cook it fresh while reheating your frozen sauce.
  6. Think about freezing each portion of the meal separately. For example, if you want to reheat a stir fry, rather than piling all the ingredients together to freeze, freeze the broth portion in ice cube trays.  Freeze the protein and vegetables in bite sized pieces.  Then, when it’s time to stir fry  you can throw a couple of cubes of broth in a wok with the frozen protein and veggies and have a great meal in just a few minutes.  When you freeze a bunch of different flavors together in the same container, the flavors have a tendency to get muddled up.  By freezing everything separately, each ingredient maintains its own unique characteristics.

Since there are some foods that just don’t freeze and reheat well, you can opt to cook most of your recipe ahead and freeze it, adding in the “problem ingredients” during reheating.  These foods include:

  • sour cream (gets very watery)
  • cooked egg (becomes rubbery)
  • cream cheese (becomes grainy and watery)
  • cornstarch for thickening (thicken with cornstarch after reheating or use arrowroot which freezes well)
  • milk, skim, 1% and whole (they separate on thawing)

What Are Your Experiences With Freezing Foods?

We all experience freezing foods whether purchased frozen, purchased fresh then frozen or after cooking. Personally, I’ve had all sorts of experiences with foods I’ve tossed into the freezer. Some wrapped better than others, some left in the freezer too long so I’m wondering what your experiences have been freezing food and leftover and what tips you have to offer.


How to Cook Scallops

May 23rd, 2011 by RG in Cooking Techniques

How to Cook Scallops: A Beginners’ Guide


I wrote a post called All About Scallops where I explained the different types of scallops, how they are harvested, how to buy them and how to store them but not how to cook them. Miss Emerson called me out on this in her comment when she said,

“You also present the material in a simple, concise, easy-to-read way. The only information I missed is that I would have liked more written about techniques like how do you get a proper sear, should you season scallops before or after cooking, how you can tell it is done.”

So in response to Miss Emerson, the question is: How do you cook scallops?

Answer:  Quickly

Hear the rim shot?  It sounds like a glib answer to a reasonable question.  But it really is the truth.  The part of the scallop that we eat is the strong, lean muscle that opens and closes the scallop’s shell so it can propel itself through the water.  And lean muscle requires quick cooking.

An overcooked scallop has a very chewy texture.  That’s because the proteins have cooked to the point that they squeeze out all the moisture.  And there is no extra fat present in a scallop to help to mask the fact that they are overcooked.

So, what’s a beginning cook to do, when even experienced cooks can end up with over-cooked scallops?  Again, the answer is speed.  Also, to play up scallops’ delicate sweetness, it’s best to use dry-heat cooking methods so that the sugars and proteins on the surface can brown through caramelization and the Maillard reactions.

How Do You Know When They Are Done?

Okay, but scallops are small.  How do you know when they’re done?  After all, overcooked is bad.  Fortunately, the scallops can show us when they’re done.  As the proteins cook, they go turn from translucent to opaque. This is dramatically evident when cooking an egg–the whites turn from clear to white as the egg cooks.  The same applies to all proteins, although the darker pigments in other proteins can make the change look less dramatic.

When you cook scallops, don’t walk away from them.  If you are going to sear them, leave them alone.  Otherwise, as for a stir fry or grilling, keep them moving.  Watch for the change from translucent to opaque.

To begin with, you might have to cut one open to check for doneness, but once you know how long it takes and what they look like when they are done, you won’t have to do that anymore.  Because of carryover cooking, it is best to take them off the heat and out of the pan when they are not quite done.  In the case of scallops, slightly underdone is preferable to overdone.

How to Get Them Ready To Cook

To prepare the scallops for cooking, pat them dry and cut off the small side muscle, if present.  This muscle will get chewy no matter what, so it’s best to just get rid of it.  You can cook either the small (1/2″) bay scallops or the larger (1″-1 and 1/2″) sea scallops by any of the following methods, except where noted. If possible, purchase dry scallops for best results.

Grilling
 Scallops

Especially when grilling bay scallops, thread them on soaked wooden skewers to keep them from falling through the grill grate, but the skewer method works just as well with sea scallops.

Dry the scallops well with paper towels. Season simply with a little salt and pepper.
Grill over hot coals, turning them every minute for even cooking, until opaque. For bay scallops, this will take about two to three minutes.  For sea scallops, about five.

Broiling Scallops

Skewering bay scallops is a good idea in this application because you will have to turn them all once.

Season however you like, thread bay scallops on soaked wooden skewers.  Place the scallops on a non-stick broiler pan and broil about 6″ away from the heating element, two minutes for bay scallops and three minutes for sea scallops.  Turn and broil an additional minute or two for bay or another two for sea scallops.

Pan Searing
 Scallops

This method is not suitable for bay scallops since they are not large enough to get a good sear without overcooking.  Save this application for sea scallops.

Preheat a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat. Add a bit of olive oil and/or butter to the pan with a brush to make sure the fat coats the entire cooking surface.
Place the scallops in the pan, making sure they are not touching.

Leave them alone and let them cook for about 1 and 1/2 minutes.  Turn carefully with tongs and cook another 1 and 1/2 minutes.

Remove from the heat. With this cooking time, the centers of the scallops will still be translucent. If you do not prefer them that way, sear them for two minutes per side.

Stir Frying
 Scallops

Use this method for smaller, sweeter bay scallops.

Heat a wok over high heat. Add a tablespoon of peanut oil.

Add the bay scallops along with a couple of teaspoons of soy sauce. Keep the scallops moving and cook until opaque, about two-three minutes.

Of course, you may stir fry with vegetables, too. In this case rather than cooking the scallops first, removing them to cook the vegetables and then adding them back in at the end, cook the vegetables first. Since the scallops take so little time to cook, you will have no problem keeping the vegetables warm.

What About Stews and Risottos?

The techniques above are all for cooking scallops when they are going to be the main event.  But, what about when scallops are just one ingredient, and are only added for an accent, as in a cioppino (fish stew) or a risotto?  Yes, it might take almost half an hour to make a risotto and even longer to assemble a good fish stew, but “quickly” is still the answer when it comes to how to cook scallops.

The simplest option is to add the raw scallops to your dish during the last three or four minute of cooking, and then serve.  This is what I would recommend.  If you do want a little color on your scallops, you can either stir fry or sear them for a minute or so and then add them into your hot dish after it has already come off the stove, allowing the heat of your stew or risotto to finish cooking the scallops.

Because scallops cook quickly and can overcook even more quickly, they do not reheat well.  Either make just enough of a dish to serve everyone with no leftovers, or expect to have some chewy scallops the next day.

I have seen some recipes for scallop casseroles that go against the “quick cooking” rule.  Most of these casseroles contain a lot of fat in the form of heavy cream or even canned cream soup.  The addition of so much creamy fat can help to keep the scallops from tasting overcooked, so, as with most rules, fat-filled casseroles are the exception to the rule.

Scallop Casserole

This is neither low calorie nor low fat.  What it is is goood!  Save this one for an occasional splurge.

Ingredients:

  • 1 and 1/2 pounds bay scallops
  • 1/2 pound sliced mushrooms
  • 1 Tablespoon butter
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • Pinch of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 4 oz. grated mild cheddar cheese
  • 4 Tablespoons butter
  • 4 Tablespoons flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
  • Several strips of bacon

Place the scallops in a buttered 1 and 1/2 quart casserole dish.

Sauté the mushrooms in 1 tablespoon of butter along with the fresh thyme, pinch of salt and pepper.

Add the white wine, and continue to cook until all the liquid is evaporated.  Set aside to cool.  Remove the thyme stems, and then spread over the scallops.

In a heavy-bottomed sauce pan, heat 4 tablespoons of butter until melted and bubbly.
Add the flour and salt and cook, stirring constantly, for two minutes.

Add the milk, all at once and stir until the mixture comes to a boil.  Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until thickened.

Add the Old Bay seasoning.  Off the heat, stir in the cheese, a little at a time.  Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary.

Pour the sauce over the scallops and mushrooms.  Cover with strips of bacon, and bake at 350F for about thirty minutes.

Let cool slightly before serving.

Related Topics

Grilled Scallops & Nectarines with Fresh Corn and Jersey Tomato Salad

Sea Scallops with Tomato Ginger Vinaigrette

Sauteed Sea Scallops On Grilled Pineapple Recipe

Tangerine Sea Scallops In Yellow Curry Sauce

Seafood Orzo Salad



How To Stir Properly

January 17th, 2011 by RG in Cooking Techniques

Stirring Technique

The Do’s and Don’ts of Stirring:

Peter Hertzmann is the author of Knife Skills Illustrated, instructor at Sur La Table and owner of à la carte cooking website. You may have seen my interview with Peter on Novice2Pro Chef Interviews. His website is very informative with tons of articles, recipes and videos.

His video titled “Stirring Conclusions” struck me as interesting, because it is something I don’t often put much thought into. You may think you know everything there is to know about stirring, but after watching the video, you may be wrong.

The video, broken down into chapters, answers all of our basic questions about stirring such as: Why is it Necessary to Stir? and Which Utensils are Best for Stirring? The video also answers more advanced or overlooked questions about stirring such as: How to Stir and Flip With a Frying Pan? and Where in the Pot to Stir?

Here are some highlights from the video and some do’s and don’ts of stirring:

There are three main reasons to stir. This may seem common sense, but many people stir only because the recipe tells them to and don’t think about the reasoning behind it.

Reasons to Stir

  • To create a homogenous mixture
  • To evenly disperse temperature
  • To alter the viscosity of a liquid (thicker or thinner)

Tools for Stirring

You may think you know which tool is best for stirring. Or, you may just grab the first thing you see and use that. While this may work, there are some tools preferred over others. Typically, we use spoons, spatulas and whisks in the kitchen to stir.

DO

  • DO use a wooden spoon for stirring. These are helpful at getting in between corners.
  • DO use a wooden spatula for stirring. This is the preferred tool for stirring because it is comfortable in your hand and the flat sides are good for scraping. You can also reach the sides and corners of a pot or pan easily.
  • DO use a plastic or nylon flat spatula for non-stick surfaces, such as pans that you would use to make omelets, etc. The plastic spatula is also great for stirring, spreading and scraping. Be careful though, these tools will melt at high temperatures.
  • DO use tongs to stir. They can also be used to turn your food simultaneously.
  • DO use chopsticks when stirring foods that can easily stick together.
  • DO use a whisk, not only when whisking something, but also when you need to stir dry ingredients together.
  • DO use your hands when mixing things such as meats with seasoning. You may get a little messy, but it’s all in good fun.
  • DO use your pan as a method for stirring. Practice the flipping motion first with dried beans or rice!

DON’T

  • DON’T use a metal spoon for stirring. The point on a metal spoon is much smaller than its wooden counterpart, meaning it comes in contact with less at the bottom of your pan. This can cause some of the ingredients in your pan to burn more easily. Metal spoons should be saved for serving.

stirring technique

Methods of Stirring

Stirring can seem like a simple concept, and it is. As long as you know when and where to stir.

DO

  • DO make sure that the utensil you’re stirring with touches the bottom of the pan when stirring liquids over heat. Don’t forget the corners as well. For thin liquids without any solids mixed with it, stirring in the middle of the pot or pan should be good enough.
  • DO hold your stirrer just like a pencil. This is the most comfortable and natural way to stir. For stirring stiffer ingredients, hold stirrer in a less comfortable grip and stir more vigorously.
  • DO shake your ingredients in a frying pan after stirring with a spatula or spoon. This allows you to turn all of your ingredients at once. Watch the video for a detailed description of how to do this.

DON’T

  • DON’T shake ingredients with frying pan if too much is in the pan. Use tongs to flip instead.
  • DON’T use the shaking with frying pan method without practicing first with rice or dried beans in a cold pan.

Frequency of Stirring

When a recipe says, “stir occasionally” or “stir frequently” what does that even mean? The more you know about stirring and understanding what you’re stirring, the better off you’ll be.

DO

  • DO stir continuously when thickening a liquid with a starch or protein.
  • DO stir frequently when solids are added to a liquid.
  • DO stir occasionally when thickening sauces by reduction.
  • DO constantly stir ice cream. You don’t want to end up with a mixture of ice cream with large ice crystals in it.

DON’T

  • DON’T constantly stir ingredients that are being deep fried in hot oil.
  • DON’T forget to stir when it’s needed. You don’t want anything sticking to the pan, burning, or not mixing properly.

And DO check out Peter’s video on the Technique of Stirring


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