Tuesday was the first day of summer and when I think of summers past, watermelon comes to mind. As a kid, watermelon was a special treat on a hot summer evening after dinner. Sitting on the front steps with some of my neighbors over to share a freshly cut melon and seeing how far we could spit the pits was a summer ritual.  Remember the old wives tale your mom or dad would tell you about watermelon pits? “Don’t swallow any pits. If you do, a watermelon will grow inside you.”

This post comes from contributing writer Chef Mark Vogel.   Not only does he offer some history of this summer icon and talk about the many varieties, he teaches you how to pick a perfectly ripe one.  At the end of the post he offers a couple of tasty recipes including watermelon salad and a watermelon cooler. Enjoy! - RG

A Little Watermelon History

The watermelon, Citrullus lanatus, is a member of the cucurbitaceae family.  Unscientifically speaking it is an iconic summer fruit, a sweet, cool and refreshing treat that no barbeque or summer picnic should be without.  And while the watermelon is unequivocally considered an American summer staple, its roots are worlds and millennia away.

Watermelons are indigenous to Africa.  They were being cultivated by the ancient Egyptians more than 4,000 years ago.  Watermelon seeds were even found in the tomb of King Tut.  From the Dark Continent they spread to the Mediterranean region, then to India and finally to China in the 10th through 12th centuries.  China is now the world’s largest watermelon producer.  European slave traders introduced them to the Americas in the 1600’s, the same century that the watermelon received its current name.  Prior to that they were referred to as citrul (a word with French and Italian origins for citrus), or pasteque, a French-morphed Arab word for watermelon.

Watermelon Varieties

There are over 1200 varieties of watermelon ranging from one to 200 pounds.  While your average supermarket melon evinces a red colored flesh, there are varieties that sport an orange, white or yellow hue.  “Seedless” varieties are somewhat of a misnomer.  They still contain small, white, edible seeds.  Forty-four US states produce watermelon with Georgia, Florida, Texas, California and Arizona leading the way.  They are available May through September with the peak from June to August.

Despite being 92% water, watermelons do contain some nutrients.  They are a good source of Vitamins A and C, and also contain lycopene, a compound reputed to have anti-cancer properties.    There are a number of other nutrients in the rind, if you’re so inclined.  In China the rind is pickled, stir-fried and stewed.  The Chinese are also fond of the seeds and roast them.  Watermelon juice can be made into wine.  In southern Russia it’s utilized to make beer.

How to Choose a Ripe Watermelon

OK, onto the question that everyone has about picking watermelon:  How do you choose a ripe one?  First, select a specimen that is symmetrical, firm, and free of any bruises or soft spots.  Pick it up.  It should feel heavy for its size.  Is the one side slightly flat with a yellowish spot?  That’s good.  That’s where the watermelon rested on the ground ripening in the sun.

Then there’s the thump test:  The idea that knocking on the watermelon can ascertain its ripeness.  I had my doubts about this snippet of common wisdom so I called the National Watermelon Association, a large multi-state organization of watermelon growers and spoke to one of their representatives.  Sure enough, they concurred.  The woman I spoke to said to thump the watermelon.  If a hollow, resonating sound ensued, you were knocking on a ripe one.

Storing

Uncut watermelons can be left at room temperature for up to two weeks but I’d recommend using them within a week.  Like any natural product, age does not bode well for taste.  Try to avoid purchasing pre-cut watermelon unless you plan to use it expediently.  Once cut, the watermelon must be refrigerated.

Watermelon Salad

• 1 cup pomegranate juice
• ½ cup white grape juice
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 small-medium seedless watermelon, chopped into bite size chunks
• 1 pint green seedless grapes
• 1 pint strawberries, hulled and cut into quarters
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• Mint chiffonade, as needed

In a saucepan combine the pomegranate juice, grape juice, and sugar.  On medium heat whisk until the sugar dissolves and the liquid becomes syrupy.  Remove from heat and allow the syrup to cool.  Combine the syrup and the fruit in a large bowl.  Sprinkle with the lemon juice and a generous amount of the mint.  To make a mint chiffonade, stack a number of the mint leaves and then tightly roll them vertically like a cigar.  Then make thin slices from end to end.

Watermelon Cooler

• 1 ½ -2 lbs. (not counting the rind) seedless watermelon cut into large chunks.
• 1 pint spring water
• ½ cup sugar

Simply whiz all the ingredients in a blender and then pour it through a sieve.  This is an awesomely tasty and refreshing summer drink.

by Chef Mark R. Vogel

The Difference Between Chicken Stock and Chicken Broth

Is it chicken stock or chicken broth?

I am constantly asked, “What’s the difference between chicken stock and chicken broth?” Many cooks and chefs use the words “stock” and “broth” interchangeably.  I have done a lot of research on the subject to clear up this issue, both for myself and for my readers.  My conclusion:  there is no real way to clear up this debate.

Unsurprisingly, it seems that most chefs and sources fall into one of two camps:  the one that uses the words interchangeably and the camp for which there is a distinct difference between broth and stock. And be careful, I have received some pretty heated emails from people who don’t agree with my definition and can only respond by asking if we can agree to disagree?

Some definitions state that a “broth” is a finished product that can be served as is, while a stock is a component of a dish and is never served on its own.  According to these definitions, the only difference between the two could be the addition of salt to make a broth out of a stock.

So What Is Broth and What Is Stock?

For the sake of clarity, I think that home cooks should understand the distinction, when one is made.  Broth is made when vegetables and/or meats are simmered gently in water to extract all the flavors.  Stock is made when vegetables and meaty bones are simmered gently in water to extract all the flavors.  Simply put, if the mixture was not made with bones, it is not a stock.

If you go with this definition, then there is no such thing as vegetable stock. It can only be called vegetable broth since there are no bones - at least not in my veggie stock but I still call I still call it veggie stock now and again.

*Disclaimer: Understand that the distinctions are very murky.  I am trying to clarify the distinction based on my research and what some of my chef friends have told me.  If you have read/learned otherwise, it is a matter of source more so than a matter of right and wrong.

To me, a stock brings body to a finished dish.  Broth brings flavor.  Heating bones (as well as vegetables and meats) gently in hot water extracts a lot of gelatin.  This happens when the connective tissues attached to the bones, as well as within the bones themselves, melt and dissolve into the surrounding liquid.

If you have ever made a stock with a high proportion of bones, you will notice that the stock has a jelly-like consistency when chilled.  This happens when the gelatin sets up in the refrigerator, much like a favorite gelatin dessert!

Body or Flavor?

The downside of making a stock with just bones is that, while you get a lot of body, you don’t really get a lot of meaty flavor.  In order to have a full-bodied, meaty stock, you really need to use a combination of meat and bones.  Make a stock with both, especially if there will be minimal finishing before serving.

If, for example, you are going to use some stock as a braising liquid, plenty of meaty flavor will come from the meat to be braised.  In that instance, the stock would not necessarily have to be meaty to begin with.  If, on the other hand, you are going to use your stock as the main liquid component in a soup, you might want to start with a meatier-flavored stock.

When you want the flavor of a dish to be more pronounced than the body, you might consider making a broth.  Personally, I find that a hearty, meaty soup can sometimes be a bit overpowering when made with a rich stock.  In these cases, I prefer using as a base a flavorful but lighter broth.

As an illustration of the differences between broth and stock, consider these recipes for chicken broth and chicken stock:

Chicken Stock*
(Lots of body, not a lot of meaty flavor)

• 3 pounds Meaty chicken bones—thighs, wings, backs—or a whole chicken carcass from a roast chicken
• 1 medium onion, halved
• 2 celery ribs, cut in half
• 1 large carrot, scrubbed and cut in half
  1 head garlic, cut in half
• 2 bay leaves
• 12 peppercorns
• 5-6 stems from parsley and/or thyme
• 4 quarts cold water

Chicken Broth*
(Lots of meaty flavor, not a lot of body)

• 3 pounds dark meat chicken
• 1 medium onion, halved
• 2 celery ribs, cut in half
• 1 large carrot, scrubbed and cut in half
• 1 head garlic, cut in half
• 2 bay leaves
• 12 peppercorns
• 5-6 stems from parsley and/or thyme
• 4 quarts cold water
• Salt, to taste

For both of these recipes, the procedure is the same.

1. Place all the ingredients in a stock pot.
2. Cover all with cold water
3. Slowly bring up to a simmer.
4. Simmer stock for 6-8 hours; broth for 2-3 hours (it takes longer to extract all the gelatin from the bones than it does flavor from the meat)
5. Add salt to the broth, to taste

*For a full-bodied and meaty stock/broth, use 3 pounds of bones plus 1-2 pounds of meat.

After all this, I’m not really sure that I have cleared up the debate for you.  I do know that, when I have the time, I will always choose homemade broth or stock over canned, mostly because I can control the ingredients and the amount of salt I add.

We’ll also have to talk more about those bouillon cubes that are so salty with some chicken flavor added and should be avoided at all costs.

Related Topics

Homemade Chicken Stock

The Precocious Fruit

What does Alexander the Great, King Henry VIII, the Spanish explorers and the English settlers all have in common?  The members of this motley crew each played a role in spreading the apricot around the globe.  The apricot probably originated in China, at least 4,000 years ago.  However, their heritage also extends back thousands of years in Armenia and India as well.

In any event, Asia is the indisputable continent of their genesis.  Alexander the Great is credited with introducing them to Greece.  King Henry VIII’s gardener brought them to England from Italy. English settlers subsequently carried them to Virginia while the Spanish introduced them to the American west coast.

Part of the Drupes

The apricot, a member of the rose family, is related to plums, peaches, cherries and almonds.  All of these fruits are known as drupes, a fruit with thin skin, a pulpy middle, and a hard center enclosing a seed.  Apricots ripen earlier then other fruits, a feature which prompted the Romans to call apricot trees praecocia, which translates as precocious.  The term praecocia morphed over the centuries into the word apricot.

There are many different varieties of apricot.  They range in color from pale yellow to a deep, burnt orange.  They prefer a continental climate with slightly cooler temperatures.  Currently they are grown throughout the world.  Turkey is the largest global producer while California leads US production.  Fresh American apricots begin to become available in the US in June.  However, apricots from Chile can be found in supermarkets as early as March.

Dried Apricots

Apricots are highly perishable and therefore drying them is an age-old method of preserving them.  Dried apricots can be found in most supermarkets year round.  Dried apricots are treated with sulfur dioxide to retain their color.  When choosing fresh apricots look for specimens that are plump, firm, and devoid of any undue blemishes.

Apricots that are somewhat soft yield the best flavor but must be consumed promptly.  Apricots ripen at room temperature.  Thus, if they are firm when purchased leave them on the counter until they soften.  They can then be stored in a bag in the refrigerator but should be eaten within a couple days.

Like countless foods over the ages, apricots have been alleged to treat all sorts of medical conditions.  Apricots, at one time or another, have been lauded to treat cancer, tumors, swelling, ulcers, constipation, diarrhea, and heart disease.  Historically they have played a significant role in Chinese medicine where they are thought to regenerate and detoxify the body.  What is certain is that apricots are a good source of vitamins A and C, potassium, calcium, iron and beta-carotenes.

Apricots have a wide range of culinary uses.  They make a delicious and healthy snack both in fresh and dried forms.  Diced dried apricots make a wonderful complement to salads, cereals, yogurt, or any other concoction amenable to the addition of dried fruit.  They can be made into a paste and/or employed in stuffings or pureed and fabricated into a sauce.  They are also utilized to flavor liqueurs such as the renowned apricot brandy.

Cooking With Apricots

Apricots can also be cooked.  Slice them in half, brush them with honey and grill them until browned.  Or to broil them, again slice them in half, and drizzle them with honey or sprinkle with sugar and/or other spices such as cinnamon.  Broil them until seared as on the grill.  Apricots can also be poached in water, wine or fruit juice that is augmented with spices.  Poach them until they become tender, about 6-8 minutes.  Remove the apricots, reduce the poaching liquid to render it more syrupy and then use it as a sauce.  Below is my recipe for an apricot glaze.  Use it to glaze a ham, pork roast, or even duck.

The skin of the apricot is completely edible.  If you prefer to peel them, drop them in a pot of boiling water for 20 seconds or so, and then submerge them in a bath of ice water.  Allow them to cool and then use your fingers to wipe off the skin.

Apricot Glaze

Ingredients:

• 6 apricots
• 3-4 tablespoons butter
• 2/3 cup apricot jelly
• ¼ cup apricot brandy
• 1½ tablespoons rice vinegar
• 1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard

How to Prepare at Home

Pit the apricots and then chop them into a small dice. Cook the apricots in the butter until completely softened.  Stir in remaining ingredients and continue to cook until thickened.  If you like, you can add some honey or sugar if you prefer a sweeter glaze.

by Chef Mark R. Vogel