Yorkshire Pudding -memories from my childhood

Yesterday I posted a recipe for a Standing Rib Roast. Yorkshire Pudding is the perfect partner for it. I remember as a kid, my mom made it often with Sunday roasts. I never knew how she got that delicious beef flavor into the puffy cake. Whenever we make this now, it takes me back to my childhood.

You can put this batter together before the roast comes out of the oven and let it stand at room temperature until you are ready to make the puddings.

Yorkshire Pudding
Serves 4 but can be doubled or tripled, if necessary

2 tablespoons beef drippings or 2 tablespoons oil or clarified butter
5 oz. whole milk
1 cup all purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 large eggs

While the meat is resting, make Yorkshire pudding. Turn the oven up to 450° degrees F.

Whisk together the flour, salt and black pepper in a bowl.

Put about 1 1/2 teaspoons of drippings, oil or clarified butter into each hole in a nonstick Yorkshire pudding tin or in a large nonstick muffin tin. Put the tin in the oven to get the fat very hot.

Whisk the eggs a bit to break them up, then stir them into the flour mixture. Still whisking, slowly add the milk until you have a smooth batter.

Transfer this batter to a liquid measuring cup with a spout.

Open the oven door. The fat in the muffin tin should be almost smoking. Quickly pour the batter into each hole, filling no more than 3/4 of the way. The fat should sizzle when you pour the batter. Work quickly, so you don’t lose all the oven heat.

Bake, without opening the oven door, for 15-20 minutes, until the puddings are a deep golden brown and very well risen and crisp. Serve hot alongside the roast.

Green Beans with Grape Tomatoes

I found this recipe in my latest Cuisine at Home cooking magazine and adapted it a little for my family’s tastes. I was a little concerned that my girls wouldn’t enjoy them because of the garlic, but my 10 year old loved them.

Most of the time when I cook fresh string beans at home, I steam them and serve. It’s quick and easy, but this recipe adds a whole bunch of incredible flavor. The cooking technique is to first blanch the beans, then saute the garlic and tomatoes and finish by combining all together. Blanching vegetables before sauteing is a great technique and often done in professional kitchens. It adds another step but it’s well worth it.

Grape tomatoes are now available everywhere and they seem to have a lot more flavor than hot house tomatoes. Normally I don’t recommend fresh tomatoes when they are out of season, but I’m finding grape tomatoes are a great alternative. Use sea salt if you have it on your shelves.

Green Beans with Grape Tomatoes

Ingredients

1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed
1 cup grape tomatoes, halved
3 garlic cloves, slivered
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive
Sea salt to taste

How to Prepare at Home

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the beans for 4 to 5 minutes. I used a strainer to hold the string beans so I could just drop them in and pull them out. While the beans are blanching in the boiling water, add some ice to a bowl and fill three quarters with water.

When the beans are done blanching, remove from boiling water and immediately transfer to the bowl of ice water. This is called “shocking,” and will stop the cooking process and retain the color of the beans. Once the beans are cool, drain and reserve.

Heat a saute pan big enough to hold all the string beans. Add the oil and when hot, saute the garlic and tomatoes over medium heat for 2 minutes, being sure not to burn the garlic. If the garlic does start to burn, remove it from the heat immediately while keeping the garlic moving in the pan with a wooden spoon.

Add the string beans and stir together with the tomatoes and garlic. You are just trying to warm up the beans and combine flavors. Season with salt and serve. The original recipe calls pepper flakes to give the beans an extra little flavor but my wife and kids would not eat them with pepper flakes so you decide.

These string beans were so good, my daughter requested we serve them on Thanksgiving. A great testimony for this recipe.

The Two Most Frequently Asked Questions About Mashed Potatoes

Potatoes have gotten a bad rap over the years. But the fault doesn’t lie with the potato, which is actually quite good for us. Rather, the fault lies in all the fatty and heavy ingredients we add to/put on top of potatoes. And don’t forget to check out my new ebook all about cooking potatoes that I did with Chef David Nelson called The Reluctant Gourmet’s Guide to Great Potato Recipes. It will give you everything you’ll ever need to know about cooking potatoes.

The holiday season is one time when we would prefer not to worry about all of that, though. I know that at the Thanksgiving table, there is nothing I look forward to more than rich and creamy mashed potatoes, and I refuse to apologize for it.

Mashed potatoes are a simple dish - comfort food at its best. But, for all their simplicity, people do tend to ask the same questions about making mashed potatoes year after year. So, bookmark this article or print it out because, here are Reluctant Gourmet’s definitive answers to this pair of persistent potato queries. And don’t forget to check out my recipe for great mashed potatoes.

Help! I have 16 coming for dinner. How many potatoes should I allow per person?

The most common answer to this question is to allow 1/3 to 1/2 pound of raw potatoes per person. This translates to between 5 and 8 oz. of potatoes per person. That’s the simple answer, but as with most seemingly straightforward questions, there are many variables that must be considered.

Remember, you’ll be mixing those potatoes with other ingredients, so for each 8 oz. of raw potato, you could potentially have up to 1 pound of mashed potatoes. And while I might load up with a majestic mound of mashers in the middle of my plate and then carefully place miniscule portions of cranberry, green beans, turkey and dressing around the edges, many people will want to give equal time to all of the other traditional Thanksgiving offerings.

1. How are you going to make your mashed potatoes? If you’re mashing them with chicken broth and some light margarine, you might consider allowing closer to 8 oz. of potato per person, but if your plans include creme fraiche, cream cheese, sour cream, heavy cream or other rich and calorie-dense ingredients, go with no more than 5 ounces of raw potatoes per person.

2. Who are you serving? If your holiday table is decidedly child-heavy, allow maybe 2 oz. of raw potato per child. If you will be entertaining the entire defensive line of the Philadelphia Eagles, you might go for closer 10-12 oz. of raw potatoes per person. And if any of your dinner guests are on Atkin’s or are Somersizing, throw out all your calculations.

3. What else will you be serving? I’m a fan of starches, so I’m all for the stuffing-mashed potato-big fat dinner roll trifecta, but if you’re trying to offer a balance of proteins, carbs and fats at your holiday table, consider the other starches on the menu. If you’re serving sweet potatoes, any other root vegetable such as carrots, parsnips or turnips, stuffing or dressing, rolls or biscuits or even another potato dish, you might choose to cut back on the potatoes to only 3-4 oz. or so per person.

4. How will you be preparing your potatoes? If you’re just straight-up mashing the potatoes by hand, you will end up with a denser end product than if you use your mixer. If you whip your potatoes, they will increase in volume because of whipping in some air, so you can probably get away with 3-4 oz. potatoes per person if you are whipping them. When hand mashing, stick with 5-8 oz.

Help! I only have so many burners on my stove top. Can I make the mashed potatoes ahead and reheat them in the oven the next day?

The short answer to that question is "No, please don’t do that." But, since I want you to understand why I’m telling you what I’m telling you, I will elaborate.

Potatoes, especially the ones that we like to use for mashed potatoes (Russets and even Yukons), contain large starch granules. When we cook them the starch granules swell up, or gelatinize, giving us the light and fluffy texture that we expect in a potato. Agitating the potatoes while they are still warm breaks up these fluffy starch granules. That’s how we get a nice and creamy mashed potato. Here’s the problem, though. Once your wonderful warm and creamy mashed potatoes cool, the starches firm up and what you’re left with is cold and clumpy glue.

If you absolutely must reheat your mashed potatoes, cook and mash just the potatoes the day before. Then, reheat with your additional ingredients right before serving. Of course, you’ll still be left with the issue of burner space.

An alternative is to mash the potatoes the day before with all of your other ingredients, but with more liquid than what you would normally use. You’ll want the potatoes to be a bit looser in consistency than how you would normally serve them. When you reheat them, your potatoes should be at about the right consistency for serving.

Another trick I have seen for reheating mashed potatoes is to hold them in a crock pot set on low. This might be an option for you if you have the counter space. I would recommend stirring them periodically to keep them as evenly-heated as possible.

I don’t think that you should try and reheat the potatoes without agitating them, unless you are going for a more sliceable end-product. If you want a fresh-mashed consistency, you’re going to have to use a masher again or at least stir them vigorously with a spoon.

And there you have it. I do hope that I have helped you to consider the many variables inherent in planning potato quantities as well as given you my best advice about reheating mashed potatoes. I hope you have a healthy and happy holiday season, and think of me kindly when you hear someone say, “Pass the potatoes please!”