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	<title>Comments on: Kitchen Granite Countertops</title>
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	<link>http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/toolsequipment/granite-countertops/</link>
	<description>You Have To Eat, So Learn To Cook &#38; Eat Well</description>
	<pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 00:49:50 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Barbara</title>
		<link>http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/toolsequipment/granite-countertops/comment-page-1/#comment-294170</link>
		<dc:creator>Barbara</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Jan 2012 01:13:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/?p=1834#comment-294170</guid>
		<description>When purchasing granite and having the fabricator template the kitchen design, in my case I had to purchase 2 sheets of granite, who gets the left overs. Because of the design in the granite and the length of my counter tops, there will be a lot of waste. Do I the customer get the waste? Or does the fabricator adjust my price?

&lt;em&gt;Hi Barbara, I asked Dan from &lt;a href="http://www.stonemastersinc.net/" rel="nofollow"&gt;Stonemasters&lt;/a&gt; for a reply and here is what he had to say.

&lt;blockquote&gt;It is typical and customary that your were quoted for stone by the square foot. If this is the case, you did not actually buy whole slabs, you only bought the square footage to make your countertops. You selected the slabs to have them made from.

On your invoice or contract it should clearly quote you a price for your counters. If it does it does not entitle you to the rest of the stone slabs. Perhaps you were quoted by the square foot, which again would not entitle you to the rest of the slab. On the other hand if your contract or estimate quotes you by the slab, the rest is yours.

FYI: The stone itself is about 1/3 the cost of a finished countertop. The labor, tooling, overhead and freight to make it fit a specific application are all greater costs than the stone itself. We average 25% waste, and know
this before we come up with a cost per square foot to make countertops. We also know that remnants are essential to recover our waste and manage that waste cost down to 25%.&lt;/blockquote&gt;

Thanks Dan&lt;/em&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When purchasing granite and having the fabricator template the kitchen design, in my case I had to purchase 2 sheets of granite, who gets the left overs. Because of the design in the granite and the length of my counter tops, there will be a lot of waste. Do I the customer get the waste? Or does the fabricator adjust my price?</p>
<p><em>Hi Barbara, I asked Dan from <a href="http://www.stonemastersinc.net/" rel="nofollow">Stonemasters</a> for a reply and here is what he had to say.</p>
<blockquote><p>It is typical and customary that your were quoted for stone by the square foot. If this is the case, you did not actually buy whole slabs, you only bought the square footage to make your countertops. You selected the slabs to have them made from.</p>
<p>On your invoice or contract it should clearly quote you a price for your counters. If it does it does not entitle you to the rest of the stone slabs. Perhaps you were quoted by the square foot, which again would not entitle you to the rest of the slab. On the other hand if your contract or estimate quotes you by the slab, the rest is yours.</p>
<p>FYI: The stone itself is about 1/3 the cost of a finished countertop. The labor, tooling, overhead and freight to make it fit a specific application are all greater costs than the stone itself. We average 25% waste, and know<br />
this before we come up with a cost per square foot to make countertops. We also know that remnants are essential to recover our waste and manage that waste cost down to 25%.</p></blockquote>
<p>Thanks Dan</em></p>
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		<title>By: Tammy Mann</title>
		<link>http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/toolsequipment/granite-countertops/comment-page-1/#comment-285302</link>
		<dc:creator>Tammy Mann</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Jan 2012 16:13:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/?p=1834#comment-285302</guid>
		<description>I just had my granite tops installed by a fabricator, and I am not happy with the results. On the corner the joint edge are lining up in the  front and in the back, but if you rub your hand down the seam one side raises up, so it is not flush is there way to fix that or will i have to deal with that. The fabricator said it was because of the way the granite was made. Can it be sanded down to be level with the other side and then polished or can something else be done about it.

&lt;em&gt;Hi Tammy, I asked Dan from &lt;a href="http://stonemastersinc.net/" rel="nofollow"&gt;Stonemasters&lt;/a&gt; to comment on your question:

&lt;blockquote&gt;If I understand you correctly, the slab is slightly dipped. Your installers made it perfectly level front and back and yet it seems to dip in the center of the seam just on one side. You didn't tell me by how much or if the stone is resin treated. These two factors need to be considered prior to making a decision to "top sand" or Top polish the seam.

This can be "Top polished" so that it feels smooth, however you will be removing the baked on resin finish (if your stone has one) and reflecting light differently (due to a different polish only on the seam) which may actually draw more attention to the seam than you intended.

My advice would be to find out if it is a resin treated stone before making your decision and measuring the lip. If the lip is very small it may not be worthwhile to top polish it perfectly smooth. The trade off is it may feel perfect but look imperfect. Not all stones are resin treated. I do not know if yours is. About 90% of all available granites are resined.

You have to remember that it is stone and a product of nature, so there may be hard and soft components within the slab. This may contribute to the surface not being perfectly flat despite the fact that it was all polished in a machine designed to face polish stone evenly. The stone itself may not be consistent lending to some areas being a different thickness than others even within the same slab.

The resin treatment will help to keep the stone from staining. Removing the resin treatment in only one area may also have the stone "AGE" differently in just that spot. Aging is the natural color change that happens over time. An even resin coating will allow the stone to age and patina evenly over time. Removing the resin in one area exposes the raw stone to light, soap, oils and other common counter-top items that may age the stone (just in the spot you instruct the fabricators to remove the resin from).

Before making the decision consider the side effects and the overall look as well as the feel, understand the trade offs and then make your decision.&lt;/blockquote&gt;

Thanks Dan&lt;/em&gt;


</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just had my granite tops installed by a fabricator, and I am not happy with the results. On the corner the joint edge are lining up in the  front and in the back, but if you rub your hand down the seam one side raises up, so it is not flush is there way to fix that or will i have to deal with that. The fabricator said it was because of the way the granite was made. Can it be sanded down to be level with the other side and then polished or can something else be done about it.</p>
<p><em>Hi Tammy, I asked Dan from <a href="http://stonemastersinc.net/" rel="nofollow">Stonemasters</a> to comment on your question:</p>
<blockquote><p>If I understand you correctly, the slab is slightly dipped. Your installers made it perfectly level front and back and yet it seems to dip in the center of the seam just on one side. You didn&#8217;t tell me by how much or if the stone is resin treated. These two factors need to be considered prior to making a decision to &#8220;top sand&#8221; or Top polish the seam.</p>
<p>This can be &#8220;Top polished&#8221; so that it feels smooth, however you will be removing the baked on resin finish (if your stone has one) and reflecting light differently (due to a different polish only on the seam) which may actually draw more attention to the seam than you intended.</p>
<p>My advice would be to find out if it is a resin treated stone before making your decision and measuring the lip. If the lip is very small it may not be worthwhile to top polish it perfectly smooth. The trade off is it may feel perfect but look imperfect. Not all stones are resin treated. I do not know if yours is. About 90% of all available granites are resined.</p>
<p>You have to remember that it is stone and a product of nature, so there may be hard and soft components within the slab. This may contribute to the surface not being perfectly flat despite the fact that it was all polished in a machine designed to face polish stone evenly. The stone itself may not be consistent lending to some areas being a different thickness than others even within the same slab.</p>
<p>The resin treatment will help to keep the stone from staining. Removing the resin treatment in only one area may also have the stone &#8220;AGE&#8221; differently in just that spot. Aging is the natural color change that happens over time. An even resin coating will allow the stone to age and patina evenly over time. Removing the resin in one area exposes the raw stone to light, soap, oils and other common counter-top items that may age the stone (just in the spot you instruct the fabricators to remove the resin from).</p>
<p>Before making the decision consider the side effects and the overall look as well as the feel, understand the trade offs and then make your decision.</p></blockquote>
<p>Thanks Dan</em></p>
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		<title>By: Janis Nicolosi</title>
		<link>http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/toolsequipment/granite-countertops/comment-page-1/#comment-237747</link>
		<dc:creator>Janis Nicolosi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Nov 2011 11:43:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/?p=1834#comment-237747</guid>
		<description>FABULOUS BLOG!! THANKS!! 
I'M FEELING BETTER ABOUT GOING FORWARD WITH REMODELING MY KITCHEN!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>FABULOUS BLOG!! THANKS!!<br />
I&#8217;M FEELING BETTER ABOUT GOING FORWARD WITH REMODELING MY KITCHEN!!</p>
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		<title>By: Laine Benthin</title>
		<link>http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/toolsequipment/granite-countertops/comment-page-1/#comment-213275</link>
		<dc:creator>Laine Benthin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Sep 2011 15:32:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/?p=1834#comment-213275</guid>
		<description>Heyho, great post! I will keep following your homepage</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Heyho, great post! I will keep following your homepage</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Dan DiTomaso</title>
		<link>http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/toolsequipment/granite-countertops/comment-page-1/#comment-206532</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan DiTomaso</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Sep 2011 14:13:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/blog/?p=1834#comment-206532</guid>
		<description>Hi June,

I am sorry to hear of your dilemma. 

The Marble Institute says that support is required for 12 inch or more of overhang. Of course this statement is stone dependent.

Having only 10 inches of overhang you SHOULD have been safe without additional corbels or bracket type supports. These would only offer support from front to back.

If the crack is running from the front to the back of the piece, (as opposed to length wise) it is likely that the crack occurred due to not enough, or potentially uneven support from left to right. Meaning high or low spots on the surface it sits upon.

Is it a crack or a fissure? Was it there for millions of years or did it only appear after it was installed. 

Which way does it run and is the piece fully supported, or are there gaps under the piece in question? 

Did you get a warranty and what does it say about cracks and fissures?

Feel free to e-mail photos to info@stonemastersinc.net. I will be happy to look at the photos and give you a call.

&lt;em&gt;Thanks Dan for your response. - RG&lt;/em&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi June,</p>
<p>I am sorry to hear of your dilemma. </p>
<p>The Marble Institute says that support is required for 12 inch or more of overhang. Of course this statement is stone dependent.</p>
<p>Having only 10 inches of overhang you SHOULD have been safe without additional corbels or bracket type supports. These would only offer support from front to back.</p>
<p>If the crack is running from the front to the back of the piece, (as opposed to length wise) it is likely that the crack occurred due to not enough, or potentially uneven support from left to right. Meaning high or low spots on the surface it sits upon.</p>
<p>Is it a crack or a fissure? Was it there for millions of years or did it only appear after it was installed. </p>
<p>Which way does it run and is the piece fully supported, or are there gaps under the piece in question? </p>
<p>Did you get a warranty and what does it say about cracks and fissures?</p>
<p>Feel free to e-mail photos to <a href="mailto:info@stonemastersinc.net">info@stonemastersinc.net</a>. I will be happy to look at the photos and give you a call.</p>
<p><em>Thanks Dan for your response. - RG</em></p>
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