Red Hawk Cheese from Cowgirl Creamery

May 11, 2011 10 Comments

Red Hawk Cheese from Cowgirl Creamery

And Now, for the Stinky Cheese Lovers Among Us, Have I Got a Cheese For You!

This review comes with a warning:  If you are the kind of person who thinks that Gorgonzola smells bad or you draw the cheese line firmly at cheddar, this post is not for you.  If, however, you love stinky cheese; if Limburger is one of your favorite cheeses; if cheese gets better for you the more it ages, then you might want to get to know Red Hawk.

We have a new cheese purveyor at the farmers market I go to in Ardmore, PA. Di Bruno Bros. took over my friend Cheeseman Jacks booth as well as 4 or 5 more. I miss Jack and his rough demeanor and his incredible knowledge of cheese but Di Bruno Bros. brought with them a much bigger repertoire of cured meats and exotic gourmet items as well as a lot of great cheeses. I asked the stinky cheese man (just kidding) for a washed rind cheese with lots of aroma like Epoisse and he came up with this Red Hawk and boy was he right.

Cowgirl Creamery

Washed Rind Cheese

Red Hawk cheese is made by the chefs-turned-cheesemakers of Cowgirl Creamery, Sue Conley and Peggy Smith.  They first made it by mistake, when they were making a batch of their popular Mt. Tam cheese.  One of the chefs noticed that the rind wasn’t developing correctly, so she tried washing it off.  She then set it aside and forgot about it.

Quick Look at Red Hawk Cheese

Region: California Country: United States

Milk Type: Cow

Milk Treatment: Pasteurized

Rennet: Microbial

Rind: Washed

Shape: Small disc

Size(s): 4 inches diameter, 2 inches high

Weight: 12 oz

 Now For Some Detail

And when she remembered it again a few weeks later, it had developed a distinctive reddish-orange rind.  After they tasted it, they realized they were onto something and perfected the technique.  It’s a triple cream, washed rind cheese (as is Limberger, if that gives you an idea of its pungency).  It is made with organic cow’s milk which I like, especially as a father, because it is pesticide free. That is, if I could get my kids to eat it.  They both are adventurous eaters, but won’t go near the stuff and leave the room if they smell it.

It reminds me of a comedy routine:

“This cheese is so stinky…”

“How stinky is it?”

“It’s so stinky that it makes Limburger smell like roses.”

“It’s so stinky that I can still smell it on my hands hours after I’ve eaten it.”

“It’s so stinky that the dog won’t have anything to do with it.”

I learned that I am the bad father when I store my beloved stinky cheeses in the refrigerator.  One of my girls will open the fridge door to grab a snack, only to reel back in horror at the smell.  Even double-wrapped in plastic wrap, I will admit that there is a lingering…earthy…aroma about the refrigerator!  And if I leave it out to let it come to room temperature so I can enjoy some?  Forget it.  As the cheese tempers, the smell becomes more pronounced, and I am left alone in the house while the girls seek refuge outside.

Now, before I completely scare you away, hear me out.  Red Hawk might not be for the faint of heart, but if you like “stinky” cheeses–and this might be the stinkiest cheese I’ve ever eaten–there are a number of reasons why you should give it a try.

  1. Red Hawk won Best in Show at the American Cheese Society’s Annual Conference in 2003.  It also came in second Best in Show and won a Gold Ribbon at the conference in 2009.
  2. All the milk to make the cheese comes from Straus Family Dairy in Marin County, California.  How many single dairy source cheeses do you know?  Exactly.  I like that I know where they get their organic milk and how the cows are treated.  In this case, I think it really is true:  Happy cows do come from California.
  3. The cheese comes in 10 oz rounds:  enough for you and nine of your closest friends to try it, but not so much that you can’t figure out what to do with the leftovers.
  4. Red Hawk is aged for four weeks before being wrapped up and sold, but the cheese will continue to age in your refrigerator, so if you have the inclination and your family will let you, taste a bit every few days to see how the flavor, texture and aroma changes over time.
  5. It pairs equally well with bold red wines, sweet dessert wines and hearty stouts.  Now your beer-loving friends and your wine-loving friends can come enjoy the same cheese tasting!
  6. As a triple-cream cheese, the cheesemaker adds extra cream to the milk in the mix. This adds to the butterfat which in turn adds to the creamy, silky, smooth mouthfeel.  This is a truly decadent cheese.

Stinky Cheese

So, if you have stuck with me this far, let me tell you what to look for when you buy it, because I know you want to try it.

Be sure to ask your cheese guy to give you a sample before buying.  It will be coming straight out of the refrigerator, so remember that the aroma and the flavor will be muted.
Smell it.  It should be pungent and earthy, but if it smells like ammonia, that’s a sure sign that it is over the hill.
It is a bit pricey–mine was over $30/pound–so don’t buy more than what you can eat in a couple of weeks
My wife and I served it with some apple slices and French bread.  This was a nice pairing because the tart apples seemed to mellow out the cheese a bit.
Do let it come to room temperature before eating so the flavor and aroma have a chance to bloom.

Do you like stinky cheeses?  What is your favorite?  Are your kids afraid of it like mine are?  Have you ever tasted Red Hawk?  I’d love to hear from you, so feel free to leave a comment.

Last modified on Thu 12 December 2013 11:04 pm

Comments (10)

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  1. rose says:

    my kids used to make me go out to the garage to eat my Limburger and keep it in a coffee can in the fridge; I am so going to look for this new one – thanx for a great review…

    Hi Rose, that’s very funny. Let me know what you think of it. – RG

  2. zgal says:

    Loved your review! I had a round of the Mt. Tam and enjoyed it. Next I moved onto the Red Hawk and the smell put me off at first. Having put in $20 into the investment I stuck it out and gave it a chance. I must say, now I am a true fan!

    Thanks zgal. I agree, the initial smell takes a little getting used to but what taste! – RG

  3. jan says:

    i am a cheesemonger and you have great taste! i would recommend winnemere made by jasper hill in upstate Vermont if you are looking to broaden your horizons. jasper hill has a large selection of “lost” farmhouse cheeses. there is a another cheese called hobson made by jasper hill that is outstanding! – similar to a st. nectaire
    good luck

    Thanks Jan, I’ll look for them and give them a try. – RG

  4. Jill says:

    We had a potato gratin recently made with Cowgirl Red Hawk cheese. We can’t find it for sale locally and would like to find a substitute. Any recommendations? The recipe is on their website and is wonderful!

    HI Jill, Cowgirl Red Hawk cheese is a triple cream, washed rind cheese so you may consider substituting another stinky washed rind cheese like the ones I talk about on Stinky Cheese.

    I checked out the recipe you mention and will have to give it a try. It looks great but I hope so because these cheeses are not inexpensive. Let me know what you decide on using and how it turns out. – RG

  5. Jill says:

    Yes, the cheese is expensive to cook with, but worth it in this dish. We had it at my daughter’s house and she used half of her piece of Red Hawk and it fed six people easily. My local Whole Foods recommended Epoisses as a substitution and I used less cheese as well and it was a bit stronger taste, but still delicious. You have a great website!

    Thanks Jill, much appreciated. Epoisses could just be my favorite stinky washed rind cheese ever. – RG

  6. McKinney Mommas says:

    Love both of the Cowboy Creamery cheeses I’ve tried. Red Hawk was my FIRST stinky cheese that actually turned me onto stinky cheeses! 🙂

  7. Monica says:

    I love Red Hawk. On a baguette alone, with apple, or with anything. I could eat it with nothing, it’s so good. Best breakfast sandwich ever=baguette, red hawk, tomato slices, fried egg. Heavenly.

  8. Lori Krauss says:

    My guys are always wanting to stop at their shop in the Ferry Building in SF. I could spend hundreds of dollars on cheese and they would eat it in 1 day. But boy, is it delicious and they don’t even mind the stink. They eat it with apples and grapes. A perfect lunch.

  9. Lynn says:

    Thank you for giving one of my favorite cheeses a well thought out review. My local gourmet shop was kind enough to order some for me. Kicked myself for not bringing some back from Cowgirl Creamery when I visited their shop last month.

  10. Debra says:

    I had this on Valentine’s Day this past weekend. Loved it! I thought the creamy silky texture was great on a plain baguette. Still thinking about this cheese, I decided to research it. Yes indulgent for sure, but did not strike me as stinky as the reviews report.

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