Tie the fresh parsley, bay leaves, and celery leaves in a bundle with cotton twine.
Chef Wells starts in an unheated saucepan, adds the oil, onion, garlic, and salt, and stirs to coat with oil. Over moderate heat, she cooks these ingredients until the garlic turns golden but does not brown, about 2 to 3 minutes.
If using whole canned tomatoes, first puree them using a food mill. If you don’t have a food mill, try using a blender or food processor. The same would be true if you are using fresh tomatoes. If using crushed tomatoes, they can be added directly from the can.
Add the bundle of herbs, stir and simmer uncovered until the sauce thickens, about 15 minutes.
Remove the herb bundle and taste, and adjust the seasoning with salt.
Notes
If using fresh tomatoes, 8 – 12 fresh plum tomatoes, skins removed, cored and crushed by hand.)